Unlocking the Secrets of Skincare: a guide on AHA's and BHA's for beginners
When it comes to skincare, acronyms like AHA and BHA might sound made up (especially to those who are new to the skincare realm), but they are the names of two potent ingredient categories that can transform your complexion.
These skincare superheroes have the power to rejuvenate, exfoliate, and renew your skin. So, let’s embark on a journey to discover what makes Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) so special and how you can incorporate them into your skincare routine for radiant and glowing skin.
What Are AHAs and BHAs?
AHAs and BHAs are two ingredient categories commonly used in skincare products for their exfoliating and rejuvenating properties. While both are chemical exfoliants that remove dead skill cells and therefore promote smoother and clearer skin, there are also some key differences in what they achieve.
AHAs are a group of water-soluble acids that are naturally found in fruits and sour milk or yoghurt. Common AHAs used in skincare include Glycolic Acid (from sugar cane) and Lactic Acid (typically derived from plant sugars rather than from diary). AHAs peel away the dead skin cells to reveal new, more evenly pigmented skin cells and are beneficial for addressing signs of ageing and sun damage.
When it comes to BHAs, Salicylic Acid is the most common used in skincare. It is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate the pores more deeply, removing dead skin cells and excess sebum, making it effective for treating acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
Whilst AHAs and BHAs do a fantastic job in caring for the skin, it is also essential to apply SPF during the day, as these ingredients can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.
Key benefits
There are many benefits associated with the use of BHAs and AHAs and depending on your skin concern, you can use these two magical ingredients to achieve some pretty amazing results. We’ll explore these below:
Smoother Texture and Reduced Fine Lines
AHAs work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of your skin. This process, known as chemical exfoliation, encourages the shedding of these dead cells, revealing newer, smoother skin underneath. Through this process, AHAs can achieve improved skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Diminished Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation
With the ability to renew the surface of your skin, AHAs can effectively fade hyperpigmentation and age spots and enhance the overall radiance of the skin.
Acne-Fighting Abilities
BHAs excel at exfoliating inside the pores. They can penetrate oil and break down the substances that clog pores, making them highly effective for treating acne and preventing future breakouts.
BHAs are particularly beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin. They can reduce blackheads, whiteheads, and blemishes while preventing new ones from forming. BHAs can have anti-inflammatory properties.
Enhanced Absorption of Other Skincare Products
AHAs and BHAs prep the skin by banishing dead skin cells and unclogging pores, which allows any following skin care products to penetrate the skin more deeply and allows any active ingredients to work more effectively.
Great for body bumps and ingrown hairs
AHAs and BHAs are also an effective treatment for ingrown hairs, due to their exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. By removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, hair follicles are less likely to get trapped under the skin surface. Additionally, regular use of AHAs and BHAs helps to soften the skin surface, making it easier for hairs to break through the surface of the skin.
Types of AHAs and BHAs
There are many different types of AHAs and BHAs and working out what they can all do, will help you choose the best skincare products for your skin care concerns.
Glycolic Acid: The Queen of AHAs
Glycolic Acid is the most common type of AHA and effectively exfoliates dead skill cells on the skin surface. Naturally derived from sugar cane but also produced synthetically, this AHA has antimicrobial properties making it a great all-around treatment that targets a variety of skin concerns.
Glycolic Acid has the smallest molecular weight of the AHAs, which means it can penetrate the skin deeply, and is therefore very effective. It is often considered one of the best AHAs for anti-ageing benefits, such as fine wrinkle and line reduction.
Most suitable for:
- Dry skin
- Combination skin
- Aging or mature skin
- Acne-prone / oily skin
If you want to see Glycolic Acid in action, try our LYCON Skin Radiance Lime Caviar AHA Mask (also contains Lactic Acid (LA) for increased exfoliating powers – see more on LA below). This mask will draw out impurities and clogged pores, while simultaneously smoothing and nourishing your skin. And for the feet, our Lyco’pedi Smoothing Cream does wonders. It deeply hydrates the skin on the different parts of the feet and it is highly effective in dissolving layers of though cry callused skin on the soles of feet. Best used at least once a day. It is a one-way ticket to silky soft feet.
Lactic Acid: The Gentle Exfoliator
Lactic Acid is another common AHA, which is very close in the keratolytic (skin cell turnover/renewal) power to Glycolic Acid, however more gentle. This makes it an effective exfoliator and anti-aging product for those with sensitive skin. It’s usually made commercially via the biofermentation of plant sugars (often from corn).
Lactic Acid is also part of the skin’s natural moisturising factors (NMF), so it delivers effective hydration benefits. It also has skin brightening properties and effectively evens skin tone and texture.
Lactic Acid is one of our favourite AHA ingredients for its effectiveness and greater suitability for sensitive skin. Two of our crowd favourite products that contain Lactic Acid are our ingrown-X-It Solution & PINKINI Refining Treatment. As a bonus, they both contain Betaine Salicylate for its gentle double action exfoliation, making it both powerful and gentle enough for intimate areas – see more info below).
Insert image of product in use or results (image of bump free bikini areas)
Most suitable for:
- Dry skin
- Combination skin
- Aging or mature skin
- Acne-Prone / oily skin
Salicylic Acid: The BHA for Breakouts
Salicylic Acid is the most common BHA and is especially good for oily and acne-prone skin and can also help calm down general redness and inflammation.
It is a bit milder than AHAs and being oil-soluble it can dissolve sebum and penetrate and unclog pores.
It’s also an effective ingredient for minimising ingrown hair concerns.
To make the most of this powerful ingredient, our crowd pleasers ingrown-X-It Cream (which also contains Glycolic, Lactic and additional Acids too, as well as skin caring and balancing, Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin and Arnica) & ingrown-X-It Foaming Gel can help you achieve silky smooth skin anywhere where you are prone to ingrown hairs or congestion.
Most suitable for:
- Acne-prone / oily skin
- Combination skin
Betaine Salicylate: The Gentle Giant
Betaine Salicylate is deemed our Gentle Giant ingredient because it’s giant in effectiveness but gentle on the skin which makes it suitable for those with sensitive skin and the intimate areas.
Betaine Salicylate, a derivative of Salicylic Acid, acts as a time release complex that slowly delivers Salicylic Acid (and moisturising Betaine) over time. This means it gives the same benefits as straight Salicylic Acid, but even gentler and a reduced skin drying risk.
Try this magic ingredient in two of our very popular products that will leave you with soft smooth skin. These are ingrown-X-It Solution (also contains Lactic Acid, and skin caring and balancing Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin and Arinica) & PINKINI Refining Treatment (also combined with the powers of Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid and other powerful AHAs, as well as Papaya Extract, Tazman Berry and Hyaluronic Acid).
Most suitable for:
- Acne-prone / oily skin
- Sensitive skin
*it is advisable to exercise caution when introducing any new products into your skincare regime. For those with sensitive skin, it’s best to build up the frequency of use slowly so your skin adapts and to avoid any adverse reactions. - Combination skin
FAQs About AHAs and BHAs
Can AHAs and BHAs Be Used Together?
In summary, yes you can use both together. Used in combination will result in the ultimate deep clean. Firstly, removing dead skin cells on the surface (AHAs) and then cleaning deeper under the surface, loosening up the bonds that hold dead skin cells together and unclogging blocked pores (BHAs).
However, everyone’s skin is different, so you should always build up your use of AHAs and BHAs to make sure your skin doesn’t have an adverse reaction, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Can You Use AHAs and BHAs Daily?
It’s important not to overuse AHAs and BHAs. We recommend building up the use of products containing AHAs and BHAs over time. Initially, they can be used every second day (depending on the product and it’s use), and once your skin adapts, they can usually be used daily.
However, how often AHAs and BHAs are used in your skincare routine depends on the concentration of the acids and your skin type. Check the instructions on individual products and adjust accordingly.
It is important to be aware of how your skin is reacting. If the skin is reacting too much, reduce the frequency of use. Equally, if you’re not seeing the desired results and your skin isn’t irritated, you can increase frequency of use.
When Should You Apply AHAs and BHAs in Your Routine?
It is best to apply products with AHAs and BHAs in the evenings and to avoid using them on the same night as retinol and harsh acids.
Using a gentle moisturiser that contains hyaluronic acid, like our LYCON Skin Daily Moisture Protection, can help to balance the effects of hydroxy acids. When using any exfoliating product, it is important to always apply a sun screen every day tohelp prevent sun damage and pigmentation.
Conclusion
Everybody’s skin is different and that is totally okay! Whether you finish the day with a face as shiny as a disco ball or skin tighter than a new shirt you accidentally put in the dryer, you’re not alone!
In the world of skincare, knowledge is power and understanding how AHAs and BHAs work, means you can purchase the right skincare for you and your skin goals and ensure you’re using products that are working with you and not against you.
Whether you’re looking to combat acne, reduce signs of aging, or simply achieve a smoother complexion, these chemical exfoliants offer a pathway to your best skin yet. With the right knowledge and a tailored approach to your unique skin type, you can harness the transformative power of AHAs and BHAs and unlock your skin’s true beauty.
Just remember, before incorporating AHAs or BHAs into your skincare routine, consider your skin type, concerns, and any sensitivities you may have.